Oriental is the most searched-for perfume family in Bulgaria and also the least clearly defined. Under this label sit fragrances that differ a great deal from one another: from heavy oud to an almost dessert-like vanilla. This guide explains what the word means in perfumery, how to tell the four main types apart, which one suits which season and occasion, how to choose for a man, a woman or as a unisex gift, and how to test a fragrance in one of Akbari's five shops before you decide.
What oriental means in perfumery
In perfumery, oriental fragrances (increasingly also called amber fragrances) are built around warm, dense, slightly sweet base notes: amber, resins, vanilla, tonka bean, musk, patchouli, spices and precious woods such as oud and sandalwood. The name comes from raw materials that historically reached Europe along the trade routes from the Middle East and Asia, but today it describes a style, not an origin. What all oriental perfumes share is a sense of warmth and volume: they sit closer to the skin, develop slowly and leave a clear trail behind you. Unlike fresh citrus or light floral scents, the most important part of an oriental's pyramid is the base, because that is where the ingredients that make it recognisable live. So when you read the description of such a perfume, start from the bottom and work upwards. In the Akbari catalogue you will find oriental fragrances in the women's, men's and unisex categories, and the next section shows how to sort them into four easily recognisable types.
Amber, oud, spicy and gourmand: how to tell them apart
Amber orientals are the softest: resinous, slightly sweet amber over musk and wood. At Akbari these are AMBER MARINE and BALUCHI WOOD, both with spices on top, lavender and iris in the heart and amber, patchouli and cedar in the base, and SAMIRA, where amber is wrapped in vanilla and sandalwood. Oud orientals are the darkest and most distinctive: you will find oud in the base of DIAMOND next to musk, while MEDUSA OUD builds its density with rum, cocoa, coconut, French vetiver and sandalwood. Spicy orientals are piquant and dry: THE MILLIONAIRE with cinnamon, chocolate and rose over tonka, myrrh and cognac, and POKER FACE with nutmeg, cardamom and pink pepper over a woody base with a leather accord. Gourmand orientals are the sweetest: BADAWI with vanilla orchid, saffron, tonka and brown sugar, ALWAYS YOU with chocolate, caramel and amber, BLERTA with praline, caramel, coffee and incense in the base. If you do not know where to begin, amber orientals are the easiest to wear and oud orientals need the most confidence.
Which oriental for which season
Heat and humidity change the way a perfume is perceived, so the season is the first practical filter. In autumn and winter cold air presses the fragrance close to the skin and heavy notes sound their best: this is the time for gourmand and oud orientals. BADAWI, SAMIRA, ALWAYS YOU, THE MILLIONAIRE and MEDUSA OUD are winter scents by character. In spring, lighter amber compositions with a floral heart work well, such as MOON PARTY with iris, freesia and tonka, or VOYAGE, where amber sits in the heart under a fruity, floral top. In summer choose an oriental with a fresh opening that keeps its warmth only in the base: AQUA DI DUBAI with neroli, lime and sea notes over amber and leather, ELAY with bergamot and marine accords over amber and dark woods, or AMBER MARINE, which is an amber scent with a fresh, spicy top. A good rule: the hotter it is outside, the higher in the pyramid the freshness should sit, and the fewer sprays you need.
Which occasion: office, dinner, celebration
Oriental perfumes have presence, so the occasion matters as much as the season. For the office and everyday wear look for an oriental with a fresher or woodier character, one that the people around you notice without it filling the room: AMBER MARINE, BALUCHI WOOD, SANTE with its bergamot and ambery woody notes, or AQUA DI DUBAI. One or two sprays are enough. For dinner, a date or the theatre choose a denser, sweeter scent that unfolds slowly: BADAWI, SAMIRA, ALWAYS YOU or POKER FACE. For a celebration, a wedding or New Year's Eve you can allow yourself the most distinctive compositions: MEDUSA OUD, DIAMOND or THE MILLIONAIRE. There, the trail is an advantage, not a drawback. If you want a single oriental to cover every occasion, look at the amber scents with a floral heart, because they are the most flexible: AMBER MARINE and BALUCHI WOOD are a good starting point for men and women, and VOYAGE for a softer, more feminine option. In every case apply to pulse points, wrists, neck, behind the ears, and do not rub your wrists together, as that disturbs the development of the notes.
For a man, a woman or a unisex gift
The oriental family is the most rewarding for gifts because it is equally natural on men and women. The difference lies in which note leads. For a man choose an oriental led by spices, wood and leather: POKER FACE with cardamom, pink pepper, cedar and a leather accord, THE MILLIONAIRE with cinnamon, tonka and cognac, or BALUCHI WOOD with black pepper and cedar. For a woman look for an oriental with a floral or gourmand heart: BADAWI with vanilla orchid and jasmine, SAMIRA with Bourbon vanilla, ALWAYS YOU with chocolate and caramel, RUBY ROUGE with a fruity top and a base of vanilla, amber and cedar, or MOON PARTY with iris and tonka. When you are unsure of the person's taste, or you are giving to a couple, take a unisex composition in which amber is balanced between fresh and warm: AMBER MARINE, AQUA DI DUBAI, DIAMOND or GEYSHA, which combines lily of the valley and raspberry with patchouli and sandalwood. Unisex scents are also the safest choice for a corporate gift. All Akbari perfumes are the brand's own compositions, with the notes pyramid published on every product page.
How to test an oriental perfume in a shop
Oriental fragrances develop slowly, so testing them takes longer than testing a fresh perfume. Spray on your wrist, not on a paper strip: the base notes that define them reveal themselves only on skin. Do not test more than two or three scents at once, on different spots (both wrists and the crook of the elbow), and do not rub them. Smell immediately, then after ten minutes and again after about an hour, when you can already sense the heart and the base. If you can, leave the shop and come back: the nose adapts quickly, and your judgement is sharper in fresh air. You can test all Akbari fragrances in our five shops: in Sofia at Paradise Center (level 0), Serdika Center (level -1), The Mall (level 0) and 53 Bulgaria Blvd, and in Plovdiv at Plovdiv Plaza. Each shop has its own opening hours. Our consultants will guide you by the notes you already like. If you order online without testing first, you have 30 days to return the product with its packaging intact, and for any question you can write to [email protected] or call +359 877 447 449 between 09:30 and 19:00.
A day scent and a night scent with the second bottle at half price
Few people wear the same oriental perfume in the office in the morning and at dinner in the evening, which is exactly why the most sensible way to build your choice is with two bottles: a fresher one for the day and a denser one for the night. At Akbari it is also the most economical way: every second 50 or 80 ml perfume in the cart is 50% off. The cheaper of the two is the one halved, and products that are already discounted are not part of the offer. A few pairings that work: AQUA DI DUBAI by day and BADAWI by night if you like amber and vanilla; AMBER MARINE by day and MEDUSA OUD by night if you want something darker; SANTE by day and THE MILLIONAIRE by night if you prefer spices; VOYAGE by day and SAMIRA by night if the perfume is for a woman who loves softness and vanilla. The discount is applied automatically in the cart, without a code. Delivery within Bulgaria is by Econt or Speedy, usually within two working days, and orders placed before 11:00 ship the same day. You can pay by card online or cash on delivery.
Questions and answers
- Are oriental perfumes only for winter?
- No. Gourmand and oud orientals are at their best in the cold months, but amber scents with a fresh opening, such as AQUA DI DUBAI, ELAY and AMBER MARINE, work in summer too with one or two sprays.
- Which Akbari oriental is a safe gift if I do not know the person's taste?
- Choose a unisex amber composition such as AMBER MARINE or AQUA DI DUBAI. They balance fresh and warm and are worn equally well by men and women.
- Can I try the oriental fragrances before buying?
- Yes, all fragrances are available to test in Akbari's five shops: Paradise Center, Serdika Center, The Mall and 53 Bulgaria Blvd in Sofia, and Plovdiv Plaza in Plovdiv.